What Size Paint Brush Doll Repair

PENS ~ PENCILS ~ PAINTBRUSHES ~ PAINTS ~ Gum ~ FRAY PREVENTER
MICRON PENS These are used to brand permanent very fine blackness lines and are called for in several of my kits for such things as eyes or at the very least they are expert to sign and date your dolls with. They work well on fabric or painted cloth. Black Micron $two.75Add to Cart Brown Micron $ii.75Add to Cart
SIMPLE DOLL FACE MAKING SET USING COLORED PENCILS A uncomplicated alternative for cloth doll faces (painted or textile surface) is to apply colored pencils (if "pare" is painted on doll face, paint must be thinned to sink in and have some "tooth" - flat pigment but). This replaces the one-time small fix of colored pencils for doing "painted" faces with colored pencils. It now includes the viii colored pencils, a brown Micron pen, 2 paints, 1 for lips (sometimes painted lips work all-time or you tin utilize colored pencils), some heart hello-light every bit this must exist dotted on with a toothpick (also included) and matte varnish to seal it all. Pencil sharpener needed. $11.50 Add to Cart CHEEK PENCILS FOR Cloth DOLLS These are the same pencils I put into all of my cloth (not painted surface although paint overdye is fine) dolls to add colour to the cloth for cheeks. They can often be found in craft stores individually but I provide them here for those who don't desire to have to look. Berol Prismacolor Sienna pencils. I cut them in half for a convenient size for sewing boxes. $one.00 Add together to Cart
TRACING VELLUM FOR TRANSFERRING FACES x sheets of the special transparent vellum that tin can be used in laser printers or about copiers that utilize rut in the printing process. Line art faces (non color) printed onto this paper can then be ironed onto painted cloth for a perfect transfer to then paint or colored pencil in. Using a Clover iron (sold below) is recommended. $5.25 Add to Cart
FREEZER Newspaper SHEETS 20 sheets of flat freezer paper (heavy duty to keep flat) which are good for running through your printer. Freezer newspaper is keen for printing out paper pieces for certain quilt designs or for doll patterns - just atomic number 26 on, no pins, pull off and fifty-fifty re-use. $3.50 Add to Cart
Gum All-time all-purpose glue and recommended in many of my kits. 4 oz. Aleene'south Tacky Glue in squeeze bottle. $3.l Add to Cart

MY PERSONAL PAINTING SERVICE ~ I will now prepaint whatsoever molded doll (and hair if applicative). If the doll also has molded easily and feet, these will be painted besides. Style of painting must exist consistent with my presentation of the doll (no custom requests).  Prices vary depending on the doll involved and its complication, but run from $45 - 65 (on average) and does not include price of parts which are purchased separately or are already in a kit yous are purchasing. If yous add this detail to your cart, we volition email you with a confirmation of bodily price depending on the doll parts or kit that this applies to. Add to Cart Or, you lot may call us with inquiries. Notation: Blimp dolls cannot be accomodated due to the wide variance in other people's stuffing. PAINT BRUSHES Brushes tin be confusing. This is a complete selection of the brushes I utilize in all aspects of my dollmaking. You don't demand to own all of these to get started, but if you keep, eventually y'all will notice yous demand every ane and face the fact that you will need to replace brushes now and and so depending on how much use they get and how well you clean them. Note nearly brush sizes - these are very inconsistent from brand to brand and even within a brand. For instance a size 18/0 tin can expect and behave identically to the same type of brush labeled every bit 10/0. And then, I accept stopped putting in the sizes as stamped on the castor. Also, sometimes I go one blazon of brush from ane company and other types from another depending on what I would chose myself. This may also be reflected in prices I ask you lot to pay seeming to be inconsistent. Just know that if you respect my piece of work, I am using the aforementioned brushes as I sell. A BASIC Fix TO Get STARTED (newly revised with more than brushes) - In doubt about what to have? This basic set of 13 brushes has all the ones I use the most, including the concealer castor used for cheeks below. Cost is near x% less than ownership the brushes individually. $94.00 Add to Cart LINERS - These are used for painting stand up lone lines (eyeliner, lashes, brows and stripes) and are designed for dragging along dispensing paint stored in their longer bristles to make fine lines. I also sometimes apply these to outline lips using a larger brush to fill in. Utilize the script for painting longer lines (eyebrows, eyelids) on larger dolls (14" and upwardly), stripes or making starting lines for tops of painted doll shoes. Tip: never utilise a spotter or a typical round brush for lines (eyelining or eyebrows). Because they accept shorter bristles it may look like y'all would accept command, but they are non designed for holding paint along a line then you terminate upwardly having to become more paint more than often which interupts the painting of a polish continous line. • Extra Fine Line - I utilize this brush, trimmed - see beneath *Note - fro about all my dolls eyelines. $half-dozen.75 Add together to Cart • Fine Line - I utilise this brush for outlining lips. $seven.00 Add to Cart • Script Liner - These are good for dragging longer lines (eyebrows on larger dolls and garter stripes on legs). $7.00 Add to Cart *Special Note - I observe that to get the just right size for doll painting in my scale (dolls 14" or under), that the best lines are painted by removing a quarter to a half of the bristles of all of the liners. I go on one of each brush on hand - trimmed and untrimmed - and feel they are my most of import brushes. I used to offering to pre-trim these brushes for you, just with the new source of brushes I am now selling, it is not so necessary. But because it is something everyone should know when and how to practise, I now include a little fix of instructions with each of the liner brushes and then that y'all volition know when you might need to do this to your brush and how. If you do trim your liner brushes, I do recommend you lot have in addition untrimmed ones to utilise in other places. ROUNDS - Used for outlining larger areas (such as pilus or painted on shoes) where the filling in is washed with a broader flat brush and filling in touch up areas such as when painting lips or optics - the whites, irises or pupils. On tiny dolls, likewise are the filler-in brushes. Exercise not use for filling in larger areas or yous tin end upwards with too much paint and a choppy surface. • Spotters - Used for pupils on tiny dolls or repairing/filling in pocket-sized areas on tiny dolls (non for painting lines!) $6.l Add together to Cart • Actress Fine - This is the aforementioned castor as the Fine Line above. $6.75 Add to Cart • Fine - A slightly larger version of the Extra Fine. $8.00 Add to Cart • Medium - Even slightly larger once again. $viii.50 Add to Cart • Large - Before I found cosmetic concealer brushes (below), this was my cheek brush. It is round large plenty to stipple on cheek paint in a dry brush consequence (dabbing with virtually no paint on ends of bristles). I don't use it myself much due to preferring the concealer brushes, merely there is still a telephone call for this from dollmakers. $8.50 Add to Cart FLAT BRUSHES - Adept for surface painting in wide strokes. I utilize the smallest for filling in whites of eyes, irises, and lips on dolls bigger than Hitty. I employ the 1/xvi - 1/four for edging and filling in for pilus and painted shoes. The 3/8 - ane/2" ones are used for spreading on larger areas of paint like skin and sealing coats. Hint: I go on separate brushes in each size for dark paints and clear coating due to tiny bits of color pigment stay lodged in the bristles (no matter how much you clean) that go stuck in the finish clear coats. • one/16" $half dozen.l Add to Cart • 1/eight" $7.00 Add to Cart • 3/16" $7.25 Add to Cart • i/4" 8.00 Add together to Cart • 3/eight" 10.l Add to Cart • 1/2" xv.00 Add to Cart CU RVED Terminate BRUSHES AND FILBERTS - These brushes are flat with curved ends. They are essential for proficient blending. The smaller concealer brush is the best brush for doll cheeks in acrylic or oil. I use both sizes of Concealers for any stippling. • Small Filbert for tiny areas and dolls (6-12") $7.00 Add to Cart • Med Filbert for med areas and dolls 12" upwardly $8.25 Add to Cart • Big Filbert for lg areas and lg dolls $9.00 Add together to Cart • Concealer Brush (iii/16") for cheeks (dolls larger than 3") and fine stippling. Since nigh of my dolls are in the smaller range, I notice that I utilize this size most often, fifty-fifty on my 12" dolls. $four.25 Add to Cart • Concealer Castor (five/16") for larger areas of stippling. I utilize this one when stippling in hair on my 12 or xviii" Izannahs. $4.50 Add to Cart • Concealer Brushes Prepare of two sizes $9.50. Add to Cart FOR CHEEKS AND STIPPLING - (Concealer Brushes) ~ In my pinnacle 3 about-used brushes (for easiest-e'er cheeks) are not available in art supplies. They are called concealer brushes sold in the makeup section of drug stores. I utilize ii sizes and the ones I look for are chosen Fine Concealer (3/16" beyond) and Concealer (5/xvi" across) brushes. As of this writing, I discover it increasingly difficult to find the same quality, then I no longer recommend searching out your own unless y'all are willing to experiment. Although in the art world these resemble filbert brushes, they behave much better, and for the low price you simply cannot get a meliorate brush. Information technology seems to dry brush ameliorate and stipple better for lots longer. I use them for cheeks and applying pigment where I want to stipple or pounce the paint on to attain shading. Other brushes lift off previous paint, but these are better at not. See section higher up to purchase these or curl down to get sets of paints with include one of these just for cheeks. COMB OR RAKE BRUSHES - These are for painting in the strokes that wait like hair on Columbians and Izannah Walkers. They are constructed of alternating pocket-size clumps of long and curt bristles. The longer bristles absorb and transmit the pigment (usually somewhat thinned down) leaving spaces where the shorter bristles don't touch on. At least that's the theory, which more often than not does not work as planned and y'all end up with a glob of paint where you lot really wanted private strokes like hair. I used to offer (and attempt to use) varying sizes, but in 2022, I had a contract to brand 250 dolls who would require using comb brushes. I tried every castor out there and in the cease I found two important tricks. One is that unless your doll is very large (say 20" or more), information technology is unlikely that you would always really want more than the i size brush I am at present devoted to. It is sold every bit a 1/8", but really is a fleck wider especially when the bristles spread as you put any force per unit area on the brush. Using this size brush means that information technology might take you longer to cover the intended expanse, only you will accept and so much more command over what yous are painting, that information technology is well worth a few extra strokes. Merely what, you ask, do I practise with my stash of bigger sizes of this type of castor? You can trim in from either side right side by side to the metallic ferule and yet get some good utilize or save them for larger areas. I will continue to sell the one/4" size as well for dolls in larger sizes. The key to success using comb (or rake) brushes is to run the beard freshly loaded with pigment through a very fine tooth comb held in place in a small stand which holds the tiny comb horizontally with tines upwards so you hands are both gratis to hold the doll in one manus and use the paint castor in the other. Every fourth dimension you get fresh pigment (afterward cleaning off your castor), run the bristles thru the tiny rummage stand which will nicely separate your bristles and then every bit to paint overnice parallel lines. This little tool makes comb brushing hair details easier, an otherwise hard chore to master. In fact, in my experience, I don't think you tin can employ these brushes without this tool. Instructions included. Clean this tool frequently and utilize for a long time. • 1/8" (more like 3/16") Rummage/Rake Brush 11.00 Add together to Cart • one/4" Comb/Rake Brush 12.75 Add to Cart • Comb Tool Wooden Stand with Rummage and Instructions $5.75 Add to Cart • Actress Tiny Comb for Cleaning Comb (or Rake) Brushes (with Instructions) $1.00 Add together to Cart FANTASTIX Paint STICKS for Blending and Cheek Painting on Tiny Dolls - These are similar the insides of felt tip markers. They tin can be used to dry brush (absorb or blush) on cheeks (on tiny dolls where even a modest brush is too large) or other areas that demand a blended-out await. They are disposable, but can be used more once if cleaned and caps put on. I like to use them for pocket-sized doll cheeks (Hitty and smaller). They also brand good erasers for devious pigment. They reach the aforementioned affair equally the silk cheek tool above but are ready made and disposable. Packages of half dozen. • Fine Tip Size $6.30 Add to Cart Clasp BOTTLES (For dispensing paints, drops of water, drops of retarder - These modest squeeze bottles are a swell size to keep these supplies not merely readily at hand but ready to dispense while you piece of work. And good to travel with too. Set of iv $6.50 Add to Cart PAINTS $2.95 ea. These are my ain blends and therefore more plush. Yous tin also use commercial liquid acrylic paints in similar colors. These are all i oz. size containers: Lighter Body Tan (a new alloy of the Original Torso Tan in a lighter version) Add to Cart Annotation: This has become my preferred colour and the merely trunk color I am at present using. Darker Body Tan - My original Body Tan (rosier and lighter tan; FYI this color exactly matches a vintage Izannah Walker as compared to a paint swatch from under her dress where no fading has occurred) Add to Cart Off-white (snowmen, angel wings,whites of eyes and full general utilize) Add to Cart Cheek Colour Add to Cart Lip Color Add together to Cart Low-cal Brown (softer brow & eyeliner and shading color) Add to Cart Blue Eyes Pigment Add to Cart Dark Brown (shoes and pilus and darker brow & eyeliner) Add to Cart Black-Brown (for pupils) Add to Cart Blonde Hair Paint (use Dark Antiquing below tp emphasis this color) Add to Cart PAINTS FOR BLACK DOLLS $2.95 ea. Blackness Doll Body Pigment Add to Cart Blackness Doll Antiquing Add together to Cart Black Doll Gesso - when body paint sanded, this aureate color shines through and brings the peel tone to life. Just employ where gesso is called for. Add to Cart A BASIC PAINT SET - All my basic colors in one set. Scroll downwardly for more info. PAINTS FOR CHEEKS MY FAVORITE CHEEK Pigment Set TO THE RESCUE ~ Use acrylics for all other painting, but use alkyd oils for at least cheeks for better, easier cheeks. If y'all will exist using these paints soon after receipt, the all-time way to paint cheeks fairly effortlessly is with alkyd oils (fast drying oils). Oils allow you lot to easily feather out the edges using a dry brush and virtually no paint on your brush. Make clean up with turpentine or turp substitute. You can so seal with varnish (recommended is Mod Podge Matte) and antiquarian as usual. Included with the set of three colors in pocket-size paint pots (Titanium White, Cadmium Scarlet Deep, and Burnt Sienna) are a special brush for applying (concealer castor), a small pot of Mod Podge Matte and basic instructions. CHEEK Pigment Gear up $9.95 Add together to Cart But THE PAINTS (no extras) $4.95 Add to Cart NEW - CHEEK Paint Fix with OPEN ACRYLICS ~ My favorite technique for painting all of my dolls' cheeks is with oil paints (alkyds) using a concealer brush, but sometimes you only don't want to employ oils, even fast drying ones, then I have discovered that the use of open up acrylics is as shut as y'all tin can come to using oils with the benefit of their being h2o based. The little pot I am supplying in this starter kit will concluding a long time and do many dolls' cheeks. The set includes the pot to get started of my special color mix and another pot of sealer, instructions and tips plus the recipe for making more and best of all, the special concealer castor. $5.95 Add to Cart WAX ANTIQUING MEDIUM (Non for painted surfaces) This is a product that I worked on for years. Its utilize is limited to unpainted dolls or fabrics that can exist ironed. Comes with detailed instructions to "antique" dolls to actually await vintage - not just tea-dyed. Packet comes with a small tin of the wax medium, sandpaper and sample overdye, all that's needed, except spray starch, to do a realistic job. $6.50 Add to Cart ANTIQUING GLAZE FOR PAINTED SURFACES This is my ain antiquing formula and is painted on over painted surfaces like a glaze that imparts the look of age. Best to apply using a niggling of the Retarder to help the blending fourth dimension and over a sealed surface (use a matte or satin varnish - sold above - or a spray sealer). Varying degrees of lightness are achieved by adding more of the Retarder. For darker skinned dolls, see next item. $iii.50 1 oz. Add together to Cart OIL BASED ANTIQUING Fabricated Certain AND Like shooting fish in a barrel - MAKE YOUR Ain I know for then many through my classes that people accept a difficult time with antiquing and are rightly afraid that in the end subsequently all the endeavor of painting, that they volition jeopardize their work. And all the same it imparts such of import depth and character that is then necessary even on dolls intended to look more pristine than primitive. This story goes back to my early days of going primitive when I called upon a wonderful old standby from the paint industry for my antiquing which was an oil based product only for this. But when I wanted to kit my work, this oil based products like the other oil based paints I only used in those days, would not last once out of its metal can. So began the long struggle for a h2o based antiquing, the best of which came about after many long struggles and is the Antiquing Coat sold above. Due to my kits I became proficient at antiquing and and then forgot most that old production until I too would have the usual difficulties and then I would long for information technology. Recently a classroom emergency caused me to take to improvise and when I did I realized that though we could non put the new solution into a kit either (no shelf life once the product is out of its tube), I could help out dollmakers by letting them in on how to do an oil based antique that is easy to mix upward, doesn't take likewise long to dry (overnight), tin can become on over acrylic paints or oils, is easy to adjust and remove if you get besides much and is, in full general pretty darn fool proof. Y'all just need 2 ingredients: an alkyd oil paint and turpentine or substitute. Here is a tube of alkyd Vandyke Brownish which will concluding you for many scores of dolls and the tube will probably still be practiced for your children. The turps tin be found readily at well-nigh craft stores - I recommend Turpenoid in the blue tin can (not the green one). Tube of Alkyd Vandyke Brown (Comes with How-To Instructions) $seven.95 Add to Cart Trial small paint pot (just to see - it won't last long and then exist ready to try it) of the oil paint $2.50 (Comes with How-To Instructions) Add to Cart DARK ANTIQUING (WATER BASE) FOR Blackness DOLLS AND Hair ACCENTS ON LIGHT Pilus This is a mahogany rich warm brownish antiquing glaze that is practiced to utilise on black doll skin and as an accent color on lighter colors of hair (regular antiquing is too close in color to lighter pilus). $2.75 Add to Cart (Same as Black Doll Antiquing above) VARNISH This is a high quality varnish with a nice finish in a soft sheen. 2 oz. $3.75 Add to Cart HINT ~ My recommendation for the best finish and sealer with a low sheen is to use Mod Podge Matte, available most everywhere. Also, read my Hints folio nearly matte finishes. RETARDER (painting extender) - This medium is standard fare on my painting table - I employ it in nearly every h2o based paint I pigment with, especially the item painting and antiquing which requires fuss time. This is a JoSonja brand product that is more liquid than gels, but lots better for allowing you to spread paints and antiquing with more working time. Vastly helps the whole antiquing process and as well good for getting paint to paint fine lines with ease.This is only added to h2o based paints. 2 ounce bottle volition final a long time. $5.l Add to Cart

Pigment YOUR DOLLS WITH OILS ~ An educational activity booklet with photos showing you my pretty foolproof means of oil painting your dolls. Covers painting black dolls and antiquing made like shooting fish in a barrel. New price $12 Add together to Cart BASIC FACE PAINTING SET ~ To help people using just patterns, or making lots of dolls. A strip of larger sized paint pots with all the h2o based colors you lot need to do the detail piece of work on whatever doll face up. Cheek paint is new open acrylic blend for easier blending than liquid acrylics. Combine this with a skin color paint of your choice and antiquing (all sold in a higher place) and you have all you need. Comes with tips, concealer pigment brush for cheeks, Fantastix pigment stick for blending, toothpicks, special Qtips, sealer for cheeks, and retarder medium. Note: Some dolls require gesso which is commonly bachelor at arts and crafts stores. $9.95 set Add to Cart SIMPLE DOLL FACE MAKING Set USING COLORED PENCILS ~ A simple alternative for painted textile doll faces is to use colored pencils. Paint (matte stop) must be thinned to sink in and allow some "tooth" (not exist besides smooth). With pencils you have the most control as opposed to brushes, they can be erased until correct, and if sealed properly, will concluding, especially for display dolls (not played with). NEW Gear up includes fix of 8 special colors that volition make blue or brown eyes, ii paints for like shooting fish in a barrel places, a brown Micron for all outlining and matte varnish to seal, round toothpicks for dots and complete instructions. Can also be used on bare textile but a spray fixitive required. $11.50 Add to Cart NEW - ALKYD OIL PAINTING TRIAL Set up ~ Buying oils to just try a doll is very costly, but here is plenty to paint many dolls (at to the lowest degree the detail colors and enough to pigment one doll's peel colour and more if you add some white). These are my favorite fast drying alkyd oils. Alkyds dry out inside a few hours every bit opposed to several days with regular oils. The gear up comes with how to mix the right colors and some basic getting started info. All yous demand are good brushes and turpentine or turp substitute. Oils dry out in modest quantities, so do not society these until you are prepare to apply (I cannot guarantee how long they are usable - peradventure a few months if not opened). We put them upward fresh for each order. Once you decide yous like using oils, then investing in your ain full tubes (which last forever)will experience improve. $13.95 Add to Cart MY FAVORITE CHEEK PAINT Prepare TO THE RESCUE ~ Use acrylics for all other painting, merely utilise alkyd oils for at least cheeks for amend, easier cheeks. If you volition be using these paints shortly after receipt, the best way to paint cheeks fairly effortlessly is with alkyd oils (fast drying oils). Oils allow y'all to easily feather out the edges using a dry brush and about no paint on your brush. Clean up with turpentine or turp substitute. Y'all can then seal with varnish (recommended is Mod Podge Matte) and antique as usual. Included with the gear up of three colors in minor paint pots (Titanium White, Cadmium Red Deep, and Burnt Sienna) are a concealer castor, a brush indicate Fantastik Pigment Stick, a foam Q-tip, and basic instructions. CHEEK PAINT Ready $9.95 Add to Cart JUST THE PAINTS (no extras) $4.95 Add to Cart Brand YOUR Own OIL BASED ANTIQUING - Scroll back up to come across this. COBALT DRIER ~ GAIL'Due south FAVORITE DRYER FOR OILS (ALKYDS  OR REGULAR) ~ Cobalt Dryer is the only dryer that dries really fast and hard without making the paints shiny. A driblet or two of this old stand up-past drier is all y'all need to make your alkyds dry in almost an 60 minutes or and then. Use circumspection as cobalt is unsafe if non used wisely. .v oz container with eyedropper lid. $vii.00 Add to Cart NEW NOTE: I no longer recommend using cobalt since using alkyd oils (which I do recommend) removes the need for a dryer due to the speed with which they dry out and cobalt is unsafe. However, there are times when you might desire a dryer, and if so, this is the one I recommend. TURPENOID ~ TURPENTINE SUBSTITUTE ~ I recommend Turpenoid in a lot of my work where any oil painting is done. This product is odorless (well, a small-scale odor is in that location to exist honest, but non bothersome). I got in the addiction of using it due to education where some students are sensitive to real turpentine. Pocket-sized 4 oz. bottle $seven.50 Add to Cart Tip for Turpenoid: If you are getting this product elsewhere, make sure to get regular Turpenoid (bluish can) and non Turpenoid Natural (light-green tin can or characterization). Only use the Natural for cleaning brushes or wearing apparel and not as a medium for use on your painting. Information technology contains additives to soften paints (for cleaning) then yous will end upwardly softening the underlying layers and they will not dry well. Perhaps not even last long once dried. HINTS FOR Proficient BRUSH MAINTAINANCE (Water based paints hints) - Do not overlook the importance of this step in expert painting. If your brushes are hindering your painting quality, information technology is likely they have non been properly maintained or replaced. Get some Castor Cleaner (a powerful solvent to clean hardened paint), and some alcohol, an eye dropper or tiny squeeze canteen of water, some liquid soap (expert is Dr Bronner's available in health foods or beneath) and if you admit you are the type to put your castor in the clean up water and go out it in that location, accept some clothespins handy and so y'all can suspend your castor in the water and not allow it sit there with beard resting on the bottom. While painting, clean your brush often and wipe and squeeze bristles flat in your rag. Do this nearly every dip into the paint for best results. Otherwise, the pigment starts to glob and dry on the bristles. This seems dull, but necessary. Also go on adding a drop or two of water to your paint and stirring with toothpick to keep information technology flowing - as you are painting, the surface is drying in the air, and then adding a couple drops of water at a time replaces evaporated water. When you are washed with a certain brush, rinse well in the h2o. Pour some alcohol in a small container (I go on one handy) or even merely the alcohol cap and really work in the booze (even bending the bristles so it gets style inside where the damage begins as dried upwards pigment starts to spread the beard). You lot volition be amazed at how discolored the alcohol gets. Once information technology is really clean, put a drop or 2 of the soap on the bristles, clean in running water and thensquish another drop of the soap into the bristles squeezing them apartment and "pointing" the bristles like the brush was new. Allow dry with soap in it and information technology is ready to apply again. In cases where you forgot your brush and now the paint is dry out and beard strong, decant a little of the Brush Cleaner mentioned above and soak the bristles till the stale paint is soft. Wipe off as much as possible with a rag, so repeat until it seems clean. Now finish upward with the alcohol and soap. Do not overestimate how long a brush is skilful for. Even well-cared for brushes do not last very long. Owning new condition proficient quality brushes at all times will make your painting much easier, in fact, it may not be possible to paint well without them. Dr. Bronners Magic Soap - 2 oz clasp bottle. $2.75 Add together to Cart

DYES & OVERDYES
	DYE - Rit Tan Since information technology is sometimes difficult to find, here is an economy size of the powdered tan dye I use to overdye but well-nigh everything to give things that but-right one-time look or sometimes just to take the newness or effulgence off of some fabrics you lot might not otherwise use. My instructions included. I no longer offering this and prefer Paint Overdye below for crumbling. If you want Rit dyes you can find them readily in stores or online.
	WAX ANTIQUING MEDIUM This is a product that I worked on for years. Its employ is limited to unpainted dolls or fabrics that tin can be ironed. Comes with detailed instructions to "antique" dolls to really wait vintage - not just tea-dyed. Packet comes with a small tin of the wax medium and, sandpaper and powdered dye to overdye, all that'due south needed, except spray starch, to do a realistic job. $6.50 Add to Cart NEW ~ Large size tins at present available. This is merely the antiquing wax in a two.5 " tin, no instructions, sandpaper or powdered overdye included. $12.00 Add to Cart
Original Aged for "tanning" upwardly colour	ORIGINAL Pigment OVERDYE The very best and easiest mode to get the quondam look for fabrics (silks too) and laces, especially whites and too-brights. Easier than stovetop methods but must exist used only on apartment fabrics and laces. Complete instructions included for using this. Makes new impress fabrics wait old, makes whites and laces await vintage. Mixes with h2o, reusable and dries quickly. Overdyed samples included. 2oz. jar (will do a lot) $7.50 Add together to Cart
Yellowing	Pigment OVERDYE FOR THE YELLOWED Await I have been finding the need for an overdye that gives a more yellowed wait - simply the kind that sometime whites and old laces get. Presenting this new formula. NOTES ~ To distinguish between the Original and Yellowing (I recommend y'all have some of each since it is not e'er a given which 1 you will like the best in whatsoever state of affairs), the original formula (above) should exist thought of every bit giving the aged and dirty await and for toning downward that too bright look of many prints and fabrics, and the new formula for when a more than aged, just yellowed expect is desired. I found the yellowing formula best on laces and some whites. An example of how fickle dyeing is, I apply my Original recipe on virtually fabrics and my regular fine batiste, but for the extra fine batiste I observe the Yellowing works all-time. Most times we need Yellowing on laces used but Original on the batiste even if they are going together. This is why I recommend having both recipes on manus. Experiment on small pieces. 2oz. jar (will do a lot) $7.50 Add to Cart
New Overdye for Doll Bodies	PAINT OVERDYE FOR DOLL Torso FABRIC When my 30+ years of always using i tried and true cotton body fabric which came in only the right tan was discontinued I first needed to stop wailing and tearing out my pilus and figure out what next. Not wanting to switch fabrics, it remained to order the same material in an unacceptable light color and and then piece of work out a paint overdye colour to brand my own expert color for that vintage and much handled look everyone loves on old cloth dolls. This new color can be used on any calorie-free cotton and unlike manufacturing plant dyed cloth, does help to add to the truthful age as whatsoever manus dyed fiber does, which are the good things out of the bad. We besides have used this as a darker overdye on some fabrics needed a darker cast. 2oz. jar (volition practice a lot) $7.50 Add to Cart

Encounter Above under Basic Dollmaking Fabrics for Dyeable Silks and Other Suggestions

GAIL WILSON FAVORITE DYE RECIPES AND INSTRUCTIONS
This collection of my bones palette of GW colors uses Rit powdered dyes. I no longer sell pre-mixed packets of the colors, but all may exist readily constitute either in stores near you or by Googling the colors in each recipe. Each recipe in the color palette has iii variations. If used full force, the darker version of the color is produced, used in lesser strength produces a pastel of the same color and with the addition of specified amounts of gray, you go a muted, dustier color. Gail swears by all of these colors (taken from Colonial palettes) and finds that you can get merely about whatever combination that is needed to suit anyone's fancy or that of a demanding doll. These dye colors are easy to utilise Rit dyes and just have a few minutes on the stovetop. Primarily they are for dyeing the silks above, merely can also exist used on wools or even cottons (however, cotton is harder to reach optimum results).

Includes all recipes for my basic color palette plus many more than deep colors for wools used in Penny Rug designs or other Santa accessories. $four.50 Add to Cart

What Size Paint Brush Doll Repair,

Source: http://www.gailwilsondesigns.com/all_page_content/supplies_paints_dyes.html

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